Pandora Street

Sweet Sunday

Folks!

Sweet Sundays are back. Same sweetness, more people!

Sweet Sunday was started 20+ years ago as part of the Crag X commitment to make climbing a good place for all kinds of people.

Covid has made it clear that we could all use more sweetness in our lives. More consideration for each other, more effort to make things easy for each other and more community in all the ways that word comes to life. With this reintroduced Sweet Sunday, we are bringing the effort of creating good climbing spaces to more people.

The Sweet Sunday model has a Crag X staff and an affinity group partner lead a night of climbing and learning from 6-9pm on Sunday. The theme of the night allows us got focus on a group of people (and their friends) and design the night around their needs. Our awesome Laura Schrader will be the Crag X person that acts as a consistent through-line across the Sundays. Laura will be joined by a great collection of people through the series.

Sweet Sunday topics to come:

November 21 Mindfulness and Climbing: For climbers who need to devote effort to the mental effects of height or self-doubt, and their friends. Laura will be joined by Tash who says:

I started climbing because it seemed like a great way to be active and have fun with friends. I didn’t really see it as a mindfulness practice at first. Coming from a yoga and meditation background though, it only makes sense. Everything we do can become a mindfulness practice, including climbing. I realized that the only thing on my mind when I climb is nothing at all, nothingness. My mind is empty, my body is in a flow, I’m just climbing, and I love that feeling. But I also noticed the stories that started to build in my mind when I wasn’t able to climb something that I wanted to climb and would compare myself to others around me. That needed to change. There was no reason to feel bad about myself or to feel any less worthy than the person next to me. A grade doesn’t define me. I invite you to come and explore how we can become our own best climbing partners and how mindfulness can improve our overall climbing experience.

Sweet Sunday topics coming down the road include:

LGBTQ Climbers: For queer climbers and their friends

All Agilities and Abilities: For climbers whose bodies don’t fit traditional models of athleticism and their friends.

Shorties!: For people with smaller bodies who want to learn creative ways to solve climbing problems.

Climbing in a Woman’s body: for people interested in climbing in a woman’s body, and their friends.

50+ Climbing: Climbing with people who are enjoying climbing in an aging body, and their friends.

My Climbing Partner Moved Away: For climbers who need to find someone new to climb with.

Details:

No belay tests, but non-belayers can be signed in.

Book in to confirm spot, but drop in is allowed if we have room (Max 40 People)

$5 for members, $20 for non-members

Covid and Crag X

September 2, 2021

We have returned to a drop-in climbing model, with no need to book a slot or limit your visit!

Crag X is still requiring masks for everyone in the building.

As of September 13, the new BC Proof of Vaccination requirement is in effect. When you show us your proof of vaccination, we can make a note on your file so that you only need to show us once. For more information on the provincial requirement, head to the BC government website.

As always, we will be keeping our eyes peeled for more information on how we can run Crag X safely and in compliance with the law.

Thank you!

Changes at Crag X

Folks!

We have a few things changing at Crag X, some COVID related, some not.

SETTING & GYM HOURS - Starting July 4 - we will be doing our twice a week setting on Monday and Wednesday. That means our hours will change to 12pm-11pm on Monday, Wednesday and 10am-11pm Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. Weekends are unchanged with 10-6pm hours. In July and August, we are not open on Sunday.

COVIDSLOTS - Also starting July 4, we are getting rid of COVID slots before 4pm. With a newly increased capacity, we are going full drop-in climbing before 4pm on weekdays! If you plan on staying past 4pm, please make sure you have a slot - no arriving at 3:30 hoping to stay until 5pm! We are increasing capacity of COVIDSLOTS after 4pm, but won’t be offering evening drop-in climbing yet. Saturdays will be drop-in all day long.

TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS - Another change coming July 4 is that we will no longer have any restrictions on climbers that have left Vancouver Island. Weekend climbing trips don’t mean having to stay away from Crag X!

NO CHANGE - Masks are still required in the gym. This was the first covid measure we adopted and will likely be the last one to go.


Looking forward to the next easing of restrictions as we move towards the light at the end of the COVID tunnel.

BC Circuit Break March 29, 2021

In accordance with newly announced Covid measures. We are cancelling all Beginner Lessons and Lead Lessons.

In the spirit of helping to make the Circuit Break succeed, we are also halting drop-in climbing. Climbing will be available only by booking a Covid Slot.

Setting and Grading

Grading is a favourite discussion for climbing and climbers. While some people are zen enough to truly think grades don’t matter, us human types enjoy being able to track our progress, set goals, and celebrate breakthroughs. Grades are how we do that.

It is really difficult to get right and there are so many factors that go into deciding a grade.

First though, it’s important to say that a climber can only truly have an opinion on the grade of a route once they can climb it without hesitation from bottom to top. When a climber can’t immediately get the sequence, they slow down and pause, burning precious energy and bumping the perceived difficulty, even if they get the onsite. Watch someone else climb it, make sure you aren’t missing a key foothold or sequence. Sending it again with the beta figured out gives a better idea of the grade. Plus, it is a totally natural reaction to think climbs you fall on are harder than climbs you don’t - especially if it happens at a grade you should get. Someone could write an interesting paper on the ratio of comments about climbs being too hard versus climbs being too easy. (Hint: it’s not 50/50)

The style of a climb matters tons. You like crimps? Slope-fests will seem harder. Not so great flexibility? Climbs that require it will feel harder to you than they do to a flexy friend. Climb outside lots? You probably have greater comfort with smaller footholds and won’t add the extra body tension that boosts perceived difficulty. Reachy climbs feel harder for small types and crunchy routes work against the talls. Climbs with bold moves feel harder on lead than they do on top rope. Every climber should come to know what style of routes feel hard for the grade for them.

There are larger obstacles to grading too. Everyone getting stronger as we move into the fall and winter indoor season means that we might not recognize how hard something would have been to us even a few months ago. The COVID shut-down has made this normal season-creep even more pronounced. Ask yourself - Am I heavier? Am I injured? Tired? Have I been climbing more than usual? All of these things can make a grade seem stiff. New holds make a difference too. Unfamiliar means more thought in grip, more time to figure it out, things that feel like more difficulty, but aren’t. Feeling the flow and having a good day can make everything feel easy. Low-gravity days are great days. Adding new setters into the mix also adds an extra element to grading - when your target grade is 5.10b, you really want it to be a 10b. It is part of the development of a routesetter to admit you missed it and grade without the ‘anchor’ of what grade it is ’supposed to be’. It’s something we watch for, but humans are going to human, so sometimes we call something a grade it isn’t. To top it off, grades are broad by definition - how else could the hundreds of thousands of climbs in the world be slotted into just the thirty steps from 5.0 to 5.15? Of course we will find ourselves with one 5.9 being harder than another! This means grading even one route on its own means trying to get different climbers on the same page. Now do it for a whole gym and try to make it make sense and be consistent.

Lastly, every setter trains their climbers to understand their style. It’s the reason why in Setter Showdowns, local climbers pick the climbs set by the home team setter as the winners. I’m sure you all have begun to get a sense of who set what climb at Crag X. Movement is pattern and rhythm, and the familiar is comforting and nice. Even though we have a ‘house style’ at Crag X, when a new setter comes onboard they speak the vocabulary of movement with their own voice. That’s a good thing, and something we encourage. Sometimes it’s hard to understand a new accent, but if you listen you’ll get there. Setting is a craft. A trade that allows the practitioner to leave a piece of themselves in their work.

Does that mean we get grading right all the time? No. It most definitely does not.

One thing I think we do get right is to always self-evaluate, always listen to feedback and always approach this lovely job with humility and effort, no matter how long we have been doing it. Since we have been doing it for almost 30 years now, we have learned to know the difference between a new accent and mispronouncing the words. We’ve watched setting fashion come and go and come back again (Yes! Setting has fashion and style too!) Over the years we’ve also learned to listen to new voices and new ways of speaking climbing; to appreciate the effort of listening. We are always learning. We always make mistakes.

All to say, we pay attention. We work at it. Keep talking to us, we will keep listening.

#climbingisfalling #everyprojectisaproject

November 24 Island Health Announcements

We have had a look at the Island Health rules and are complying with them in full.

  • We are already a mask-only facilty. Three layer masks only.

  • We have cancelled/postponed group bookings and Taste Tests. If your session was cancelled, you will aready have received an email from us.

  • Rise and Shine and Lessons are still proceeding.

  • We have removed cardio equipment from the studio. It is available for stretching/strength only and capacity is restricted to four persons at a time.

Fine Tuning

We are always working to make things better at Crag X, doubly (triply!) so during this COVID time.

To make things work a little smoother we are:

!. Mixing up the COVIDSLOTS to give climbers more options for duration and start times of their session. Starting December 1st, climbers can book 3hour and 2 hour sessions.

2. We have streamlined the waiting process for DROP-IN slots and now have a waiting list that can send you a text when a spot opens up.

3. Even better, you can get on the waiting list using our Crag X RockGymPro app.

4. You can now cancel your COVID slots using the app. Go to your recent bookings and hit cancel to free the spot for another Crag X Climber.

Thanks for being great.

We’ve had really great cooperation with all the changes we have had to make at Crag X. Thanks.

Here’s a plan, let’s double down on the diligence with hand washing and sanitation, especially when leaving. Climb with freshly washed hands. Go back out to the city with clean and sanitized hands.

Thanks for mask wearing too! Climbers are good at evaluating risk and mitigating it. Masks are an easy one.

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Air Quality and Ventilation

Learn about the giant HVAC air-handlers that keep Crag X air fresh by swapping indoor air for outdoor air every 90 minutes all day long.

Read More

Mask Monday and Wednesday

UPDATE: We are now masked up seven days a week.

Starting July 27, Monday and Wednesday will be Mask Required climbing days. The rest of the week will be Distance Required climbing days, with masks only needed to be worn when 2m separation can not be maintained and in the studio.

We are doing this to give climbers the option to continue climbing and maintain the BC Phase 2 level of protection. We chose to do it Monday and Wednesday because we have overnight cleaning the night before.

As we all feel our way through this, we hope to be able to adapt ourselves to make as much room for each other as we can. Climbing is important to our lives and we are happy to do our part to keep adjusting so that all our climbing friends can keep climbing.

Next little steps...

We have had a great response from all the climbing community. Super great cooperation. Everyone is staggering their arrival, wearing a mask, respecting the 2m distance and being generous to their fellow climber.

Our next step is to allow non-members back into the gym and new people too. Any climbers who have already passed our belay test can now book a spot and come climbing. For those who have not done a belay test with us yet, sharpen up those skills before you come for your first visit. Belay Tests will be strict and we’ll be expecting high levels of safety to allow for the best possible physical distancing practices. We can’t come closer than 2m to make adjustments or help you make adaptations. So sorry. (And as always, you need to show us your stuff using a GRIGIRI)

We are also welcoming non-climbers, but under the guidance of members as a non-belayer. We aren’t quite there for restarting Beginner Lessons, although Harrison is doing a few to work out the kinks.

Members (EFT and year pre-paid) receive two passes to bring a non-climber to the gym each month with no charge for the day pass. During our COVID-19 reopening, we are including rentals too! That means you can introduce your bubble-friend to climbing at no cost. Each member will have to sign a non-belayer agreement taking responsibility for their climber’s safety. The non-belayer will have to sign a waiver and the jointly sign the non-belayer form too.

We look forward to seeing some new faces in the gym as we move towards normal operation.

June 1, 2020

We have an opening date!

Thank you so much to all the people who kept us going through the long COVID19 shutdown. We could not have done it without you!

We will be reopening with top-rope, lead-climbing and bouldering. Auto-belays too.

While BC is in Phase 2 we will be operating in a way that minimizes the chance of outbreak while still allowing climbing to happen at Crag X.

During Phase 2:

  • To limit capacity and maintain physical distancing, climbers will have to book a time to have their climbing session.

  • To decrease chance of spread everyone will be required to wear a face covering while in the building.

  • In order to limit spread we will be making some physical changes (screens, fountain shut off etc) and behaviour changes (studio capacity limit, hand-washing when you enter and before you leave the gym, refraining from socializing outside of your climbing partner etc)

  • Only swipe and go climbers who already have a belay test can climb at the gym. This means Members and punch-card holders only. No non-belayers or children.

  • If you have never been to Crag X, you can not climb in this first stage. We will announce when we can start adding new climbers.

  • Extra procedures (breaks, first aid methods and equipment etc) to protect staff are being put in place.

  • A spirit of minimizing the risk to our climbing community and the larger Victoria community will motivate every decision we make about how to operate Crag X

To find our more about Booking a COVID-Slot Climbing Session (and staggering your arrival), see our page on booking.

A COVID FAQ is where we put the answers to the things that need to be clarified.

A guide to being an COIVID19 minimizing climber will help you think about your part in all this.

Some things we will add to our Phase 2 operations as we get the first steps figured out:

Things that will change as time goes on and BC transitions to Phase 3:

  • Relaxation of Face Covering wearing (if BC Health directs/allows)

  • Small groups

  • Increased studio capacity

  • Drop-In Climbing for Punch Pass holders

  • Drop in Climbing by Day Pass purchase

As you can see there is lots to figure out as we move towards June 1st. Check back here and we will keep you up to date.

Thanks for your support and see you at the gym!

The shape of opening to come

We’ve been doing lots of work with others in our industry to get ready for climbing in the CV19 era.

We are working with the CWA, CEC, SCBC and the BC Gym Owners to determine a path forward and create a plan for operating the gym when we open.

First priority is the safety of our staff. They will be spending more time at the gym than anyone, so it is important that we operate in a way that will minimize risk. Staff will be asked to protect themselves and climbers and keep Crag X a good place to be. For stage one of opening, protecting others by having everyone in the gym wear a face covering will be one part of the solution.

Next is all you beautiful climbers. Climbers will be asked to protect staff and each other by only climbing when healthy and by maintaining good hand and respiratory hygiene. Coupled with appropriate physical distancing, wearing a face covering, and our extra cleaning we think we can run a climbing gym that does as good a job as possible to reduce transmission of CV19. In the beginning, climbing will need to be less social than it was. We are working out the details of a system to fairly share climbing in a gym with a CV19 mandated smaller capacity.

Finally we must do our part to protect the rest of society. This means washing hands before a climbing session and also before leaving the gym and returning to the outside world. It means being careful about your personal ‘restart’ and making choices about how much of your old life you restart and how much mixing of households you do.

We are making the final decisions on our three stage plan for opening and will be announcing it soon. We also hope to give a firm date for restart.

Looking forward to seeing you all soon.

Crag X

In this CV19 time it isn't always easy to keep up with who you are, or even with things you love. I've been reconnecting with my love of climbing by dreaming my way through guidebooks and rereading A Youth Wasted Climbing, by Dave Chaundy-Smart.

The book is an autobiography and covers Dave's entrance into climbing in 1980s Ontario and then out to the wider world of climbing. He describes the climbing scene I entered as an 18 year old on the limestone cliffs of Milton, Ontario. Reading it, I felt like I was always just out of frame, standing at the bottom of the cliff watching from afar as he and his friends pushing climbing.

Click to buy it at Munro’s books.

Click to buy it at Munro’s books.

In those early small days of climbing, learning was hand-to-hand and Dave was a guy to look up to. Young climbers all knew the names of First Ascentionists and routes were going up all around us. Niko and I would goof and joke and pretend to be Helmut Microys because he was a local hard man and his name was cool. We acted cool when they walked by on the way to their latest projects. It felt big when we first started to get a nod of recognition. “You guys doing Straight Up? Take this red Friend for the roof” We were young kids and we were hanging around the cliffs long enough to be climbers. It was like joining a secret world.

A memory: Spring of 1989 and standing with Niko at the bottom of local 5.9 test piece Cat's Tail; looking up at it and remembering hearing Dave say "If you can climb that, you can climb the Nose." I can still feel the texture of that rock on the back of my hand. Cooler as you reached deeper.

(Dave was right, and Niko climbed the Nose eventually. I never did, a major regret.)

Dave was an Ontario guy that was friends with Peter Croft and lived in the Valley and helped us expand our 25m climb out to the size of the most famous route in the world. A real life person walking around. Climbers like him were my connection to the big world of climbing that would eventually become my life and livelihood.

So, dig into your guidebooks. Find the old issues of climbing magazines you used to pore over. Go through your photos and remember why you love climbing.

(And if you want a sideways path to know a little bit about me, and what climbing was when I started, and why it is I still think of myself as an outsider even though it isn't true anymore, read Dave's book.)

Kenneth

PS As a bonus, it's published by friend of Crag X RM Books [FB @rmbooks INSTA @rm_books]




Thinking about making decisions.

I've now had over twenty hours of meetings with provincial, national and international associations of climbing gym operators to discuss the range of options available to climbing gyms looking to reopen. Senior staff meetings on top of that to figure out what works with Crag X and what will serve the needs of our staff and climbers.

We'll be letting you know what procedures we will be rolling out. Lots will be changing as information changes, but know we will take the approach to risk management we have always taken:

  • make climbers aware of risk

  • give information and techinques to mitigate risk

  • put procedures in place at Crag X to help with that mitigation

  • trust climbers to make judgements about accepting risk that keep themselves and the community safe.

Looking forward to getting back to being Crag X again.