BETWEEN TWO ROUTES: AN INTERVIEW WITH LORS

Thank you so much, Lors, for your time and ideas!

Liam: So, how did climbing come into your life?

Lors: I moved into a house with seven people, and five of them were climbers. They took me outside to climb, and it was absolutely terrifying, but I loved it. I almost killed myself when I got to the top because I freaked out and climbed over the edge.

Liam: Like past the anchor?

Lors: Yes! I unclipped something, I guess it was part of the anchor, I don't know, but no one died!

Liam: Wow! Were they yelling at you?

Lors: Oh yeah, like don't do that!

Liam: Holy crap! And then you stuck with it after that?

Lors: Yeah, so the philosophy is to go with people who are slow and explain things.

Liam: Yeah, because they hadn't explained anything about what to do at all?

Lors: No, not at all!

Liam: Sometimes those experiences galvanize you because it's so scary and intense it becomes really important and significant to you, you know?

Lors: Yeah, that's one of the things I like most about climbing. I get really scared, and then I keep going, and then the fear goes away, and I'm like, "Wow, I did the scary thing!" And I got through it.

Liam: Because sometimes you just have to be scared, and there's no way of doing it without being scared.

Lors: Yeah, or you don't have that part of your amygdala functioning.

(Laughter and joking about Alex Honnold)

Lors: I think it transfers into the rest of your life. If you have to stand up in front of a whole bunch of people and do something professional, you're like, "Oh yes, I know this feeling of abject terror."

Liam: Yeah, and you know you're not going to die.

Lors: Yeah, and I need to breathe and find that zen feeling of relaxation and make my little hind brain calm down.

Liam: So, why do you keep doing it?

Lors: I keep doing it because it's fun to be strong. I was never strong before. I could run faster in the zombie apocalypse and climb up things.

Liam: So, did you do any sports before climbing?

Lors: Not really, no. I didn't really hike or anything before. I don't really even like hiking very much, but I like hiking when you get to climb afterwards.

Liam: I've heard climbers call a hike without climbing the long approach to nowhere.

Lors: Also, I move around a lot, so you have an instant community anywhere you go. Climbers are generally really nice people, so you can show up somewhere, not know anyone, and they'll look after you. I've rocked up in the south of Spain, hoping to find climbing partners, and discovered a ton of people who had done the same thing. I got to climb with people from all over the world there, and that's super cool. All these different perspectives on life and stuff.

Liam: Like I've climbed with people where we haven't spoken a word of the same language and had a fantastic time!

Lors: Yeah! Except there is a word in German that sounds like "up" but actually means "down"!

(Laughter)

Liam: How would you describe the style in which you climb? Like your approach to climbing?

Lors: I have injured myself so much, so my approach is to show up and see what my body wants. If parts of me hurt, I'll be gentle and think about getting stronger outside. Sometimes in the gym, I try too hard. But outside it’s more of a puzzle, because you have to find the right hands, the right feet.Liam: What do you think was your worst moment while climbing?

Lors: Ohhhhh, there was this one time when a rope broke.

Liam: What happened?

Lors: Well, it was the second time we had used it, and it was just a freak accident. There was this guy we had never climbed with before, and he was trad climbing and his gear kept popping out. Eventually, the rope broke, and if he had hit the bushy ledge, he would have hit the ground.

Liam: Wow, did he rip three pieces?

Lors: Yes, he did. It must have been the way he hit the third one that caused the rope to snap. We sent the rope back, but we never heard anything.

Liam: That's crazy that the rope broke.

Lors: Yes, it's very rare. Also, there was a time when my sister was belaying me, and she's scared of bees. When she saw some bees, she panicked and let go of the rope, but the guy next to her caught it.

Liam: You mentioned Lebanon earlier. Did you do a lot of climbing out there?

Lors: Yes, I did. The climbing community was amazing, and it was a small community, so you got to know everyone immediately.

Liam: How is climbing perceived in Lebanon? Are people into it?

Lors: From my experience, even the people whose property we were climbing on were very friendly and curious about what we were doing. They thought it was insane but were very supportive.

Liam: Speaking of traveling and climbing, has there been anywhere in climbing that has stolen your heart?

Lors: I really liked the south of Spain. El Chodo has some beautiful multi-pitches and a huge amount of climbing routes. The rock there is sandstone and limestone, but the ones closest to the climbing areas are like glass. The community there is great, and you can rent a tent for five euros a night. There's a big shared kitchen, and people from all over the world come to climb there.

Liam: What was your happiest moment while climbing?

Lors: I think my happiest moment was also in the south of Spain. It was my first major multi-pitch climb, and when we reached the belay station 350 meters off the ground, it was just me and my climbing partner, and we sat there in awe, enjoying the view.

Liam: It's a pretty special feeling when it's just the two of you up there.

Lors: Yes, it was amazing. We were hanging out on the side of a big rock, and everything was so beautiful. There were people with goats running around, and we got to speak Spanish with the locals, which was lovely. But I also love taking people out climbing for the first time and seeing their excitement when they conquer a climb or when someone sends their project.

Liam: Thank you so much for sitting down with me, Lors.

Lors: Thank you for having me. Oh, and by the way, I'm looking for someone to practice Arabic with. If you're interested, let's chat!

Between Two Routes: An Interview with Zorah

Liam: Why do you climb?

Zorah:  I climb because from the moment I tried it at 58 years old, I just loved it. 

L: What do you think it did to engage you so much?

Z: Well I was gymnast when I was younger, and then I was injured, in so many ways, and I though I could never do something physically exiting again. And then I discovered with training and strengthening and rehab I could actually climb, which felt like a miracle.

L: Why are you here? In the gym, and in general?

Z: I’m here at the gym in part because climbing is addictive, we all know that. But I’m still here present trying to do it because it’s such a phenomenal growth opportunity. To learn to be still, to be focused, to be brave but not stupid, to be social and to be totally there for your partners. And pushing yourself to the limit. How often does an old person get to push themselves to the physical limit? Almost never. And now I’m still here climbing. Though I’m trying not to be an adrenalin junkie, because I’m trying to learn flow. To give everything but also flow, so that it’s like a dance, and I’m not forcing it anymore. Though I still train hard, I do my best climbs when I forget about the training and just flow.

Life works that way too, so its great training for life.

And then ultimately it’s the people; some of my closest friends now are my climbing partners. The trust we have in each other and the exposure to each other I find very beautiful.

L: Because when your with someone in a genuinely dangerous situation you realy have to trust them.

Z: You have to trust them! Then when you take it outside, it’s the whole next level, then you are in nature with these people you love, doing something you love all day.

The people at Crag X too are amazing in the way that they supported me. The tribe of climbers, including these young guys supporting an older woman leaning to climb, I find very beautiful, and I’ve not experienced it in any other realm.

L What is your relationship with fear?

Z: Climbing is great courage training. It’s great resiliance training. Because you have to just hold your shit together. When I’m well trained though and I’m in flow, I don’t feel fear and I climb better.  

L: Is fear something you have to suppress? What is your strategy in dealing with fear?

Z: It’s not that I get afraid, I just realize that I’m safer if I don’t give into the fear. If I think about the fear I’m more likely to fall. But the important moment is in advance of the climb, when you make sure you can commit to it and do it and that it is a wise choice to climb it. And if I’ve decided that it is a wise choice then I can manage it. 

L: Whats your relationship like with falure and success?

Z: Thats an important one. There is a great book, ’The Rock Warriors Way,’ that really emphasizes that it is the process of learning that matters the most. And if I’ve worked on a climb and I didn’t send it, it still taught me something, then I say, “I learned something today” and so that was good.  

L: Is there a place you have climbed that has captured your imagination?

Z: The multi-pitches on Salt Spring. I’ve done three of them, and they are amazing.

L: The rock is different out there.

Z: The rock is different, utterly amazing. Big wall feeling 1,800 ft up.

L: Right outa the ocean!

Z: You turn around and look, and holy Fu%$#k.

L: What has been your happiest moment climbing?

Z: Me and Chantell doing our first multi-pitch together, and me being the second for her, and utterly supporting another person doing something that they find really hard is just as joyous as doing it yourself. 

Oh and I gotta go.

L: Perfect timing, thanks so much for that.

How to Redpoint a Route

What is redpointing?

Completing a route without falling, after trying previously unsuccessfully. Takes practice and “rehearsing”. It is how top climbers advance the sport and all the rest of us get our climbing to the next level.

How is redpointing different from onsighting and flashing?

Onsight a Route When you successfully climb a route first try, without seeing anyone do it.

Flash a Route When you successfully climb a route first try, after seeing someone else do it.

What kind of climbing can we climb higher grades of: redpointing or flashing?

Redpointing. Because we can practice moves for greater knowledge and to learn the route secrets. This allows us to :

1. Learn the best sequence (to avoid costly mistakes and find a plan for the crux)

2. “Wire” moves into muscle memory to become more relaxed and easier

3. Figure out best pace and find rest positions

   All these bring us closer to our maximum potential and changes you from trying a route to working a route.

How to Redpoint a Route

1. Pick a route.

Select a route that is 2 grades higher than your current onsight level. (or 3 grades higher than what you currently can complete without falling). Basically, if you know you can walk up to a new 5.7 and do it without falling, with it still being a challenge, then pick a 5.9. If you can onsight a 5.10a, pick a 5.10c or 5.10d.

This may be a fairly challenging route for you, maybe the hardest you’ve done, but not ridiculously so!!!! If possible, select a route with an easier route on the same rope.

2. LOOK at the route.

Try to read the sequence of moves (advanced- feet as well as hands). Look for spots that may be good rest spots, stemming moves, or look like they will be very good holds. Divide the route into 3-4 sections based on these rest spots.

3. Sample the sections.

Climb the first section (for more advanced, if possible, climb an easier route to the top, and do the last section first). Try doing the moves in different ways, seeing which way feels the best for YOU. Monitor how challenging the moves feel, and spend extra time evaluating the harder moves. Try different techniques! Ask your partner or others for advice on how it looks! Use the stall method to evaluate each move (hover hand over hold for 3 seconds to see if your body is balanced). Try to eliminate mistakes - each movement should be CONTROLLED… if not, rest more or pick an easier route.

The best way to get a sense for the best sequence is to do it while FRESH… take your time, and don’t worry about taking too long. If you got through the section without challenging yourself at all, you may need to pick a harder route. If you were hardly able to get through the section, you may need an easier route.

If you’re not too spent, REST adequately (for a few minutes!), then do the next section.

Switch with your partner.

Then do the remaining 1 or 2 sections.

3. Review it.

Look at it again, recall the hand sequence, and then try turning your back and telling your partner the sequence! Use terms to describe the holds and moves, like “right hand to blue sidepull”, “crossover to little purple crimp”, left hand to black undercling” “match on the huge green jug”. Remember to name the ends/beginnings of sections and rests. Visualize the route.

Answer these questions:

1. Where is the crux? What do I need to do there?

2. Where are the rest spots?

3. What is the best PACE for each section?

4. What is my body position for clipping, if you are leading?

If you are unsure about any sections, sample it again.

4. Link it.

Once you have learned the intimate details of all the moves, you can begin linking your sections together. If there is an easier route on the climb, go from the TOP DOWN. So link the last 2 sections together, then the last few. This way, you can learn the top moves the best, which will be hardest since you will be the most fatigued when you reach them starting from the bottom.

If you easily reach the top, try the whole process again with a harder route. Please feel free to ask others for “beta” (tips and hints), but don’t offer Beta to others unless asked. Most climbers love the process of discovering a route for themselves. This process may take days or weeks, but the reward of redpointing a new grade is awesome!

May 24 - Upcoming Events

Upcoming Events - June

Sweet Sunday - Climbing & The Nervous System

Sunday, May 29th 6:00pm-9:00pm

June Youth Program

Monday, June 6th, 13th, & 20th 4:00pm-6:00pm

GOATS Queer Climbing Lesson

Saturday, June 18th 6:30-9:00pm

Pride Climbing Day

Saturday, June 25th 10:00am-6:00pm

DRAG X

Saturday, June 25th 6:00pm

Check in with desk staff for registration and more info!

Spring Fling Finale (Thing)

Hey folks!

There are just under two weeks left in the Spring Fling Comp Thing. We hope you've been enjoying the routes!

We're wrapping things up with a Spring Fling Finale on Saturday, May 14th. Everyone is welcome, whether you participated in the comp or not. Below is the schedule for the day.

The day will start at 10am with regular climbing open to competitors and the public. There will be some bonus routes worth extra points so make sure to come try them out!

At 2pm the Spring Fling Games will begin. Test your skills with some blindfolded speed climbing races, a dyno competition, rope-jugging face-off, and lead climbing on-sight challenge. Bonus comp routes will still be available at this time.

Didn't do the competition but want to try the games? A $10 scorecard can be purchased upon entry to participate in the games!

At 5pm we'll take a break to tally up all the scores and start serving pizza and beer.

At 5:30 the finalists of the rope jugging and speed racing will face off.

At 7pm the winners of the Spring Fling Series will be announced, as well as winners of the games. We'll be giving out a ton of sweet prizes at this time too.

After that it'll be time for music, pizza, beer, kombucha and spike ball.

We hope you'll join us to cheer on your friends, kick back and relax, and celebrate all your hard work.

Bring your own floaty for seating. Food and drink tickets will be available for purchase at the front desk.

Please note that we'll be closing at 3pm on Friday, May 13th to set up for the finale.

T-shirts will be available for pickup at the desk on Saturday!

@patagoniavictoria @2percentjazz @loyalteavictoria@arcteryxvictoria @arcticfox.victoria@brickyardpizzavictoria @robinsonsvic@southislandclimbers @lululemon@cultured_kombucha @taitphysio

April Events

Hi Folks,

Here’s an update on what’s coming up at Crag X in April! We've got some exciting stuff lined up.

First, if you’re in need of a new pair of climbing shoes, stop by the gym on Monday, April 4th between 6:00 and 8:00pm. Jean from SCARPA will be in to demo some of their shoes (not for sale).

Next, our upcoming Youth Programs are going to look a little different than usual. The next one starts on April 4th and will run on the first 3 Mondays of the month. A new program will start on the first Monday of each month. Register online or at the desk.

Next, we’re running a comp! The Spring Fling Comp Thing is a 5-week Progression Series of top-rope and lead climbing, culminating with a championship round and Spring Fling Party on May 14th. Register by April 10th to get a free t-shirt! Read all about it and register here or chat with desk staff for more info.

Also, Physiotherapist and climber Curtis Tait is back on Saturday, April 23rd for another education session on injury reduction and rehab. This private event will run from 6:30-8:00pm while the gym is closed for climbing. Book your spot here.

We’d like to send out a big thank-you to everyone that participated in our last Sweet Sunday session for shorties! The next Sweet Sunday will be on April 24th from 6pm-9pm. This session will be for the ladies. Sign up here to save your spot. 

Finally, the next Rise and Climb series is set to start May 3rd. Learn more and sign up online or at the desk!

Feel free to stop by the desk and chat with staff for more info on any of the events listed above. We look forward to seeing you!

March 3: Upcoming Events

Hi Folks,

Here’s an update on what’s coming up at Crag X in the next couple months. 

First off, a big thank-you to everyone that participated in our Sweet Sunday session on February 20th. The next Sweet Sunday will be on March 20th from 6pm-9pm. This session will focus on climbing in a smaller body and will be led by our very own small-but-mighty, head-setter Eric Durafourt, along with other short-person-beta-expert guests. Sign up here to save your spot. 

As well, a huge thanks to Curtis Tait for hosting his injury prevention clinic, we hope to see more of these mini clinics in the coming months. Keep an eye on our social media for more details. 

On Saturday March 5th we’re hosting a queer climbing lesson & meet-up with our friends at GOATS. Check out their facebook event for more info. Sign up for the lesson here, book in for the meet-up here.

The next Rise and Climb series is set to start March 8th. Learn more or sign up online or at the desk!

All of us here at Crag X are excited to announce that Friday, March 18th marks the return of Low-Power-Hour! This edition of LPH will have some special DJ’ing from our very own Harrison and Khaled.
Regular $11 Power Hour Entry Rate. Drop-in only, no booking ahead. Don't forget to bring your headlamp! *No lead climbing, no belay tests.* 

Got plans for Spring Break? Our Youth Program is running through the break and is now open for booking. 3 structured sessions in the first week of a one month membership. Click here for more info and to book your spot!

We look forward to seeing you!

Jan. 31: Upcoming Events

Hi Folks,

Here’s an update on what’s coming up at Crag X in the next few months:

First, Sweet Sunday is back on Sunday, February 20th. This next session is called ‘Finding Community at the Climbing Gym.’ It’ll be hosted by Laura Schrader and Amy Cole. Click here for info and booking.

Next, Physiotherapist and Climber Curtis Tait is hosting a mini-clinic on injury prevention and rehab essentials on Wednesday, February 23rd from 7:00pm-8:30pm. The session will run in the studio and will be limited to 7 spots. This free event will book up fast, so make sure to reserve your spot here.

Got plans for Spring Break? Our Youth Program is running through the break and is now open for booking. 3 structured sessions in the first week of a one month membership. Click here for more info and to book your spot!

On Saturday March 5th we’re hosting a queer climbing lesson & meet-up with our friends at GOATS. Check out their facebook event for more info. Sign up for the lesson here, book in for the meet-up here.

Finally, the next Rise and Climb is series is set to start March 8th. Sign up online or at the desk!

We look forward to seeing you!

January 13 Update

We are open once more, at limited capacity and with pre-booked climbing. See COVID-SLOT to book your spot. If you are an EFT member, you will notice that your monthly payment (billed January 13) has been reduced to compensate for the days we were closed. If you are a pre-paid member, your expiry date was extended. Thanks for your understanding.

The latest requirement for vaccine proof means that we will have to ask you all for your proof of vaccine again. We are only allowed to accept QR code vaccine proof. Paper cards are not accepted any longer. QR codes from any province work with the BC QR code reader. Canadian Forces can present their CF vaccination card if you have not yet registered for the national QR code.

We are rolling out the QR code re-inspection by birth month. We are starting with January birth month and will work our way through the year. No need to show us your card until we ask for it.

We will update further after the January 18 date the province has planned for a next-stage announcement.

Thanks,

Kenneth and Nikolai

We are open December 27, 2021

Folks!

We have received the details of the PHO and as expected we are back to our COVID slot and capacity limitation model of operation from the last circuit breaker.

This means booked climbing only, no drop in climbing and the studio can not be used for cardio training.

Go here for an explanation of Covid Slots.

Need more information to decide on continuing to climb? See here for some discussion about Covid, air circulation and Crag X. See here for a discussion of our Covid protocols and how they were developed. Our Covid FAQ might help too.

Want to put your membership on hold? Use the My Membership form to let us know.

Here’s hoping it ends January 18!

Crag X

COVIDSLOTS - December 27, 2021 Version

 COVID Slots

We are back to Covid Slots to manage capacity at Crag X. Crag X falls under the same rules as bowling alleys, swimming pools and ice rinks. Places with large volume of air and natural spacing between participants.

Why?

1. To manage the number of people in the gym at any one time.

2. To fairly share climbing time.

3. To comply with Public Health directives.

How?

1. Online booking slots can be booked for up to 3 climbers at a time.

2. Booking is done through our RGP Connect app, or by clicking the button below.

3. When appropriate, we will transition away from booked slots towards our old drop-in model.

Things we are trying to avoid, and what we plan do to about it.

1. Crowding as one block ends and another block begins.

   1. Buy punches here to make your entry touchless. We are doing touchless transactions at the gym.

   2. Staggered arrival. Leave your home at the start of your climbing session. That way everyone will arrive at a slightly different time and we can avoid crowds every hour on the hour. Climbing sessions are long enough that you shouldn’t have to worry about arriving right at the start to have enough time to climb. If you can’t make your slot -cancel it! Someone can book that spot even while it is happening!!. See how it works here.

   3. Staggered departure. Try not to stay right to the very end of your session block. Have a good session and leave the building. The closer we get to a natural flow while respecting capacity limits the quicker we can leave behind the booking system.

2. Climbers wanting to book, but spots are not available.

   1. We have staggered slot times and this time we are opening them 6 days ahead of time at the time of the slot. No more waking up early to get a spot!

   2. Share. Maybe climb a shorter session and free up a slot for someone?

3. Belay tests requiring us to come closer than 2m. CV19 says “Not anymore!”

   1. Belay tests will be strictly pass/fail. We can’t come close to you to make any adjustments or adaptations. We are really sorry about this. Belay test is on a GRIGRI.

   2. Please arrange to have a partner from your bubble available to climb for your belay test. We can’t just grab anyone from the gym anymore!

Things you can do to get ready for climbing:

1. Get yourself a high quality face-covering. Masks required everyday.

2. Bring your COVID proof of vaccination and make sure your waiver is up to date. Not sure? Fill out one here.

3. Thinking about bringing a youth to climb? Read up on our child policy before you arrive.

4. The app is faster, but you can always book here at the website. Download the RGPro Connect app (Apple or Google Play) if you want to make the booking practice faster in future.

5. Check yourself before you wreck yourself. Please don’t come to the gym if:

   1. You have any symptoms of CV19.

   2. You have been asked to quarantine.

   3. If 1 or 2 apply to any member of your household.

Make sense? Click below to Book

Uncertainty

** Update ** The new circuit breaker is the same as the last. We will be open December 27. See the details here.

Folks!

The BC government has announced a closure but without the level of detail given in previous announcements. Will we face capacity limitations, like last time? Or is this a new kind of lock down?

To allow the BC government time to issue the formal PHO we have decided to start our usual holiday closure one day early. We will be closed for climbing December 23, 24, 25 and 26. We expect to reopen December 27 under similar restrictions as last time.

We will be open from 10-5pm on 23 December for last minute purchases (including gift-cards) and for locker renters to grab things out of their locker before we close for the holidays.

We will let you know more about December 27th as soon as we know.

Keep safe everyone.

Kenneth and Nikolai

Sweet Sunday

Folks!

Sweet Sundays are back. Same sweetness, more people!

Sweet Sunday was started 20+ years ago as part of the Crag X commitment to make climbing a good place for all kinds of people.

Covid has made it clear that we could all use more sweetness in our lives. More consideration for each other, more effort to make things easy for each other and more community in all the ways that word comes to life. With this reintroduced Sweet Sunday, we are bringing the effort of creating good climbing spaces to more people.

The Sweet Sunday model has a Crag X staff and an affinity group partner lead a night of climbing and learning from 6-9pm on Sunday. The theme of the night allows us got focus on a group of people (and their friends) and design the night around their needs. Our awesome Laura Schrader will be the Crag X person that acts as a consistent through-line across the Sundays. Laura will be joined by a great collection of people through the series.

Sweet Sunday topics to come:

November 21 Mindfulness and Climbing: For climbers who need to devote effort to the mental effects of height or self-doubt, and their friends. Laura will be joined by Tash who says:

I started climbing because it seemed like a great way to be active and have fun with friends. I didn’t really see it as a mindfulness practice at first. Coming from a yoga and meditation background though, it only makes sense. Everything we do can become a mindfulness practice, including climbing. I realized that the only thing on my mind when I climb is nothing at all, nothingness. My mind is empty, my body is in a flow, I’m just climbing, and I love that feeling. But I also noticed the stories that started to build in my mind when I wasn’t able to climb something that I wanted to climb and would compare myself to others around me. That needed to change. There was no reason to feel bad about myself or to feel any less worthy than the person next to me. A grade doesn’t define me. I invite you to come and explore how we can become our own best climbing partners and how mindfulness can improve our overall climbing experience.

Sweet Sunday topics coming down the road include:

LGBTQ Climbers: For queer climbers and their friends

All Agilities and Abilities: For climbers whose bodies don’t fit traditional models of athleticism and their friends.

Shorties!: For people with smaller bodies who want to learn creative ways to solve climbing problems.

Climbing in a Woman’s body: for people interested in climbing in a woman’s body, and their friends.

50+ Climbing: Climbing with people who are enjoying climbing in an aging body, and their friends.

My Climbing Partner Moved Away: For climbers who need to find someone new to climb with.

Details:

No belay tests, but non-belayers can be signed in.

Book in to confirm spot, but drop in is allowed if we have room (Max 40 People)

$5 for members, $20 for non-members

Covid and Crag X

September 2, 2021

We have returned to a drop-in climbing model, with no need to book a slot or limit your visit!

Crag X is still requiring masks for everyone in the building.

As of September 13, the new BC Proof of Vaccination requirement is in effect. When you show us your proof of vaccination, we can make a note on your file so that you only need to show us once. For more information on the provincial requirement, head to the BC government website.

As always, we will be keeping our eyes peeled for more information on how we can run Crag X safely and in compliance with the law.

Thank you!

Price Changes

See our new prices for Drop-In, Punch Passes and memberships at cragx.ca New to the mix is a discount for buying punches in 5s in addition to 10 punches. Early entry membership still gives access before 2pm and after 9pm.

Existing members on EFT will continue to pay the 2020 prices until September of 2022. Thanks for sticking with us through the COVID times.

New to Crag X is our School Year membership. All School Year memberships end on May 1st - perfect for those heading out of town after last exams. School Year memberships have all the same benefits as regular memberships, but no ability to freeze. End up staying in town? Get our Summer Membership, which ends on September 1st.

Thanks for climbing at Crag X, we look forward to things getting better and better as BC pulls out of Covid and things return to normal.

We're Hiring!

Front Desk Position Available

We’re looking to hire another friendly face for our front desk at Crag X. You’ll be working alongside an a+ crew that is passionate about climbing and the community  that surrounds the sport. Front desk staff are trusted to manage the ins and outs of climbers and curious folks passing by the twisted architecture of our glass fronted building. The front desk at Crag X varies from quiet daytime hours where tasks are often self directed to fast paced evenings working alongside other staff to keep things running smoothly. 

Front desk employees can expect to do a variety of tasks throughout their shifts including managing check ins, POS transactions, answering the phone and emails, cleaning, supervising the general floor, interacting with clients, and ensuring policies and procedures are being followed. There is lots of potential to expand into belay testing, instruction and various other responsibilities. This is a part time role with hours ranging from 12-25 hours per week. 

We’re looking for someone with the following qualities to help us continue to be Victoria’s longest running indoor climbing gym. 

• Passionate about climbing

• People person

• Committed to self reflection and self improvement. 

• Safety focused

• Detail oriented

• Previous experience in a customer service role

• Good verbal and written skills

• Good at working in a team and at self directed tasks

• Climb 10a on Top Rope

• Willing to commit to 2+ years of employment

• Aged 16 years or older

Some added bonuses we like to see are:

• Teaching experience

• First Aid OFA Level 1 or equivalent (required within the first month of employment)

• Familiarity with Rock Gym Pro

• CWA CWI Certification

• CGI level 1 and/or 2

• Lead climbing experience

• Artists, explorers, musicians, alpinists, poets, and people in love with the world. 

Compensation you can expect: 

• $15.20 during probation, moving to $15.60. Regular wage increases follow successful completion of paid training. (Wages increase with additional training.)

• Free climbing for you

• A designated free climbing partner after 3 months probationary period 

• Free lead lesson if not already lead belay qualified

• Flexible hours and vacation time

• $500 per year personal development fund

• Crag X clothing

• Private climbing time

To apply please send your resume, cover letter, and a brief climbing resume to desk@cragx.ca. We will be in contact with chosen candidates via email to set up an interview.

Changes at Crag X

Folks!

We have a few things changing at Crag X, some COVID related, some not.

SETTING & GYM HOURS - Starting July 4 - we will be doing our twice a week setting on Monday and Wednesday. That means our hours will change to 12pm-11pm on Monday, Wednesday and 10am-11pm Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. Weekends are unchanged with 10-6pm hours. In July and August, we are not open on Sunday.

COVIDSLOTS - Also starting July 4, we are getting rid of COVID slots before 4pm. With a newly increased capacity, we are going full drop-in climbing before 4pm on weekdays! If you plan on staying past 4pm, please make sure you have a slot - no arriving at 3:30 hoping to stay until 5pm! We are increasing capacity of COVIDSLOTS after 4pm, but won’t be offering evening drop-in climbing yet. Saturdays will be drop-in all day long.

TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS - Another change coming July 4 is that we will no longer have any restrictions on climbers that have left Vancouver Island. Weekend climbing trips don’t mean having to stay away from Crag X!

NO CHANGE - Masks are still required in the gym. This was the first covid measure we adopted and will likely be the last one to go.

Looking forward to the next easing of restrictions as we move towards the light at the end of the COVID tunnel.

BC Circuit Break March 29, 2021

In accordance with newly announced Covid measures. We are cancelling all Beginner Lessons and Lead Lessons.

In the spirit of helping to make the Circuit Break succeed, we are also halting drop-in climbing. Climbing will be available only by booking a Covid Slot.

Setting and Grading

Grading is a favourite discussion for climbing and climbers. While some people are zen enough to truly think grades don’t matter, us human types enjoy being able to track our progress, set goals, and celebrate breakthroughs. Grades are how we do that.

It is really difficult to get right and there are so many factors that go into deciding a grade.

First though, it’s important to say that a climber can only truly have an opinion on the grade of a route once they can climb it without hesitation from bottom to top. When a climber can’t immediately get the sequence, they slow down and pause, burning precious energy and bumping the perceived difficulty, even if they get the onsite. Watch someone else climb it, make sure you aren’t missing a key foothold or sequence. Sending it again with the beta figured out gives a better idea of the grade. Plus, it is a totally natural reaction to think climbs you fall on are harder than climbs you don’t - especially if it happens at a grade you should get. Someone could write an interesting paper on the ratio of comments about climbs being too hard versus climbs being too easy. (Hint: it’s not 50/50)

The style of a climb matters tons. You like crimps? Slope-fests will seem harder. Not so great flexibility? Climbs that require it will feel harder to you than they do to a flexy friend. Climb outside lots? You probably have greater comfort with smaller footholds and won’t add the extra body tension that boosts perceived difficulty. Reachy climbs feel harder for small types and crunchy routes work against the talls. Climbs with bold moves feel harder on lead than they do on top rope. Every climber should come to know what style of routes feel hard for the grade for them.

There are larger obstacles to grading too. Everyone getting stronger as we move into the fall and winter indoor season means that we might not recognize how hard something would have been to us even a few months ago. The COVID shut-down has made this normal season-creep even more pronounced. Ask yourself - Am I heavier? Am I injured? Tired? Have I been climbing more than usual? All of these things can make a grade seem stiff. New holds make a difference too. Unfamiliar means more thought in grip, more time to figure it out, things that feel like more difficulty, but aren’t. Feeling the flow and having a good day can make everything feel easy. Low-gravity days are great days. Adding new setters into the mix also adds an extra element to grading - when your target grade is 5.10b, you really want it to be a 10b. It is part of the development of a routesetter to admit you missed it and grade without the ‘anchor’ of what grade it is ’supposed to be’. It’s something we watch for, but humans are going to human, so sometimes we call something a grade it isn’t. To top it off, grades are broad by definition - how else could the hundreds of thousands of climbs in the world be slotted into just the thirty steps from 5.0 to 5.15? Of course we will find ourselves with one 5.9 being harder than another! This means grading even one route on its own means trying to get different climbers on the same page. Now do it for a whole gym and try to make it make sense and be consistent.

Lastly, every setter trains their climbers to understand their style. It’s the reason why in Setter Showdowns, local climbers pick the climbs set by the home team setter as the winners. I’m sure you all have begun to get a sense of who set what climb at Crag X. Movement is pattern and rhythm, and the familiar is comforting and nice. Even though we have a ‘house style’ at Crag X, when a new setter comes onboard they speak the vocabulary of movement with their own voice. That’s a good thing, and something we encourage. Sometimes it’s hard to understand a new accent, but if you listen you’ll get there. Setting is a craft. A trade that allows the practitioner to leave a piece of themselves in their work.

Does that mean we get grading right all the time? No. It most definitely does not.

One thing I think we do get right is to always self-evaluate, always listen to feedback and always approach this lovely job with humility and effort, no matter how long we have been doing it. Since we have been doing it for almost 30 years now, we have learned to know the difference between a new accent and mispronouncing the words. We’ve watched setting fashion come and go and come back again (Yes! Setting has fashion and style too!) Over the years we’ve also learned to listen to new voices and new ways of speaking climbing; to appreciate the effort of listening. We are always learning. We always make mistakes.

All to say, we pay attention. We work at it. Keep talking to us, we will keep listening.

#climbingisfalling #everyprojectisaproject

November 24 Island Health Announcements

We have had a look at the Island Health rules and are complying with them in full.

• We are already a mask-only facilty. Three layer masks only.

• We have cancelled/postponed group bookings and Taste Tests. If your session was cancelled, you will aready have received an email from us.

• Rise and Shine and Lessons are still proceeding.

• We have removed cardio equipment from the studio. It is available for stretching/strength only and capacity is restricted to four persons at a time.