Pandora Street

Learning to Lead at Crag X

So, you've signed up for our lead course and are looking forward to the sharp end!

To get the most out of your lesson, you and your partner should take the time to practice clipping a rope into a draw with both your left hand and your right hand, and for both left facing and right facing draws.

1. Head to the desk ahead of your class and let them know that you and your partner are taking the lead course and would like to be taught how to clip.  You don't have to book this mini-lesson, but we can give you the best attention when the gym is quieter. If we are really slammed, we might not be able to give you the mini lesson then and there. We can always help you pick a quiet time that works for you both! 

The mini-lesson covers:

  • The Clipping Sequence: Knot, Slide, Stabilize, Clip
  • Clipping: left and right handed from both the left and the right.
  • Back Clipping: how and why to avoid it.

2. Borrow a tag line from the desk and use it while top roping to practice your clipping. Clipping is not hard, but it is a physical skill that can be improved only through repetition - so practice! Your goal should be smooth clipping with either hand before your Lead Course.

3. Start thinking like a leader! When climbing and faux-leading, start thinking about good clipping positions and being stable. When you are on lead, stability of the body will help you control your nerves. Visualize being above your last bolt when faux-leading, it will help when you get to the real deal.

Not every video on youtube shows good methodology, here's one we think is good.