Pandora Street

Value

[I wrote this while smarting over the reaction of a few people on Facebook to our new prices on Pandora. Being a human, I of course thought most about the criticism instead of the good vibes from a happy community looking forward to a new gym. I still feel the sting a bit when I re-read this. I stand by what I wrote, even though time has passed. It’s a pretty good example of how we approach everything we do.]

With our recently announced increase in price, I've been thinking a lot about what exactly it means when we talk about value. In an obvious kind of way we use value to talk about whether something is worth the price we are paying for it. 

Now, it's been great to hear people who are still excited about the new gym despite the price increase. For the most part, I think those people trust us to keep on giving the good value we have always given them. I like to think that in their minds, the price increase is related to an increase in what we are giving them. That's how we think about it too, we honestly think we are giving people more for their money, not less.

On the other side, it smarts to be on the receiving end of people's criticism about our new prices. I think those people make the calculation that the new things we are offering on Pandora won't be worth the extra money.

Let's look at that. If you are a climber, even a dirt bag climber, lead climbing and dedicated bouldering are definitely worth something to you. Everyone expected to pay more for that. Some of the extra cost is coming from things that climbers might not notice, but will definitely feel. We've paid extra for a higher t-nut concentration, so that setting can be as creative and unrestricted as possible. By spreading the rope lines wider than industry standard to avoid crowding we've forgone number of routes for enjoyment. Rather than jam in as many walls (and climbers) as possible, we've maintained open sight lines so that Crag X will feel airy and bright.  Less 'inventory' is less revenue, but we chose like climbers, not businessmen. So even if they don't immediately see it, there is pure climbing value there.

The building is another place we can talk about value. We built a building that is environmental sound, built by island businesses. It's designed to look good. We chose a location that is downtown and we did so because we want to add to the vitality of Victoria, not be yet another reason to drive to a concrete box in the middle of a parking lot. Does that have value to you? It does to us. Our HVAC system is state of the art so we can have the cleanest air possible. If the new Crag X doesn't have clean air then it can't be done. We're also using air source heat pumps and all LED lighting. We spent the last 20 years pumping propane powered heat into the atmosphere through our terrible old building and we'd like to try and make up for it now that we can. We picked materials and methods so that it will age more gracefully that John Street did. All this stuff costs, but does it have value?

Even in smaller ways, we've done things that might not have any value for every climber. Our new gym will have four stalls in the women's washroom - more than code requires but the building code doesn't seem to mind women having to line up for the bathroom. The men's will have two urinals and stalls. No more waiting for the washroom. We'll have showers too. And foot baths. (We hope this makes going out for drinks or back to work easier and less stinky) Everything is designed to be easier for us to keep clean. Our glass front opens us to the city and to light. The studio is a bright lovely room built because we saw everybody doing their stretching and bodywork in nooks and crannies all over the gym. Only when it's not needed by climbers will we be running classes. None of this stuff is needed for a climbing gym and it's fair enough if people don't value it.

There are other things we do at Crag X that make a difference to how we feel about running the business. We pay people as well as we can. We never do any hard sell of memberships. We try to treat everyone fairly. Lot's of what we are doing with the new gym is also to make it a nicer place to work. This paragraph sounds like blowing our own horn, but it really is what we strive for. We know we miss the mark too.

Thanks for all the support over the years. It means a lot.

 

 

 

Prices

We've done the math and read the tea leaves.  We've figured out a price list that will make this all work and get you all climbing for the best price we can offer.

First, all memberships are valid in the new gym at their regular expiry date. In fact, we'll be adding time to make up for the change over close down.  Same goes for punches left on your punch pass, they never expire. 

For a limited time, the year pass is $800 and starts the day we open on Pandora.  That means you're climbing for free on John Street. Buy it today and you're getting 13 months for the price of 12. Existing membership? You keep your expiry date and we credit you any time between closing on John and opening on Pandora.  Talk to us at the desk for details.

Year Membership
Adult $800
Student $680
Early Entrance $550 (In by 2pm - $6 top up if in late) [starting on Pandora]

Day Passes [starting on Pandora]
Adult $18 (10x punch card $158)
Student $16 (10x punch card $136)
Power Hour $11.43 (That's $12 with the tax)

3 Month Membership
Adult $300
Student $265

For now, the day pass, punch card and one month rates stay at the old rate as long as we are on John Street.

We will be announcing prices for our Beginner Lesson, Lead Lesson and other programs (including things like morning yoga) once we work them out. There will be member discounts on programs.

Once we open on Pandora, we will also be offering a monthly Electronic Fund Transfer (EFT) membership for ongoing climbing at a monthly rate.  No contract. No cancellation fee.

EFT Rate (No extra $100 for existing members)
Adult $172 first month and $72 per month thereafter. 
Student $159 first month and $59 per month thereafter.

Use the EFT Membership to create your own membership of any length. For a 3 month membership by EFT an adult would pay 172+72+72=$316 instead of our $300 upfront rate. Want a four or five month membership but we don't offer them? You can make that happen with our EFT Membership. When it's time to cancel, let us know.

Taxes are extra and prices may change at any time.

 

 

 

Sneak Peek at the Climbing

We're happy to show you all some more detail on the climbing and bouldering we are preparing for you.   (Can't read it? Click the pics to embiggen)

Lead Belay with the Gri-Gri

Belaying a leader in a climbing gym with a Gri-Gri requires some skills you won't have learned if you've only belayed with ATC-type devices. Luckily it's not hard to make the adjustment.

For an overview, check the Petzl technical page: Belaying with the GRIGRI 

The big thing to learn is how to momentarily allow rope to be pulled through the GRIGRI without blocking the cam's action.

  1. Hold the rope with at least three fingers.
  2. Use the index finger to support the GRIGRI
  3. The thumb presses on the cam.

The action must be momentary, and as soon as the leader has clipped return to the primary belaying position.

More of a visual learner? Have a look at the official Petzl video.


Views Inside the Building

Construction is really moving along, with the interior construction getting going in a big way. Here are some shots to keep you motivated.  (You just might want to train endurance...)

Looking up from back of the gym.  Upper mezzanine on right has climbing as tall as the tallest lines in Crag X on John Street.  

Looking up from back of the gym.  Upper mezzanine on right has climbing as tall as the tallest lines in Crag X on John Street.  

Stairs up to the mezzanine.  Lower bouldering area starts right of the stairs.

Stairs up to the mezzanine.  Lower bouldering area starts right of the stairs.

Looking up at the future site of the chains for the huge wall in the back right corner. Seriously big when you are standing there. 

Looking up at the future site of the chains for the huge wall in the back right corner. Seriously big when you are standing there. 

View from the top of the stairs looking towards the upper bouldering area. We are loving the natural light.

View from the top of the stairs looking towards the upper bouldering area. We are loving the natural light.

All these shots by Silva. 

A tiny FAQ

Q: What percentage of the new gym will be leadable?

A: 100%

Interior Dreaming

Building a scale model to tune the interior space.

Who is that little guy with the beard anyway?

Roof Truss!

Thanks to Walter Moar we have a picture with the roof trusses on.  Mezzanine on the left side is starting to reveal itself. Studio at front left.

Walter Moar

Walter Moar

Steel Arrives

The interlocking web of steel girders and posts and trusses has begun to be lifted into place.  Next week comes the roof decking.

Three Sided Box

The first three sides of the building are up, and now the steel work begins. The front of the building is mainly glass, with three more panels framing the glass curtain wall.  

The steel guys will be welding attachment brackets to imbedded mounting plates and then the roof trusses will be craned in and welded in place. After that, the roofing guys show up.

Thanks to Walter Moar for the picture.

Thanks to Walter Moar for the picture.

Walls are up!

Take a look at this overhead time-lapse of our panels being moved into position.

Pre-Cast Panel Walls

Panel Marking.JPG

They said the panels were to big, they said they were too heavy, they said it couldn't be done. Turns out Nanaimo Precast is getting it done. Turns out the impossible just takes a little longer.

Concrete!

The old is gone and now we're starting to get things into place.

Below street level doorway.

Below street level doorway.

Demolition revealed brick archways, leading to a small area under the street where electrical and other services now run. If you want to waste a lot of time, you can start googling Victoria's underground tunnel network. There's a mega thread here, but you have to wade through a fair bit of side tracked discussions.

Concrete going in really makes it feel real. 

First Things First

We held a kick-off meeting on December 17th with all the trades involved in building the new Crag X. After introductions, Stewart Story of Story Construction (our General Contractor) went over timelines, organization and execution of our plan.  Meeting adjourned and then off to plan the first day of work - bringing down the existing building.

Working on our project is a fine team of professionals. In no real order they are:

The kick-off meeting.

The kick-off meeting.

  • Story Construction - General Contractor
  • Chandler Associates Architecture - Architect
  • Londong Mah Asociates - Structural Engineering
  • Avalon Mechanical - Mechanical Engineering
  • Magma Electrical - Electrical Engineering
  • Ryzuk Geotech - Geotechnical Engineering
  • Focus Engineering - Civil Engineering
  • Michell Excavating - Civil Contractor
  • Nanaimo Precast - Precast 
  • Alliance Engineering Works - Structural Steel Contractor
  • Oceanview Mechanical - HVAC/Mechanical Contractor
  • Brewis Electric - Electrical Contractor
  •  Pino-Lite Glass - Glazing
  • Parker Johnson Roofing - Roofing Contractor
  • Gordon N Gordon - Interior Contractor